I have designed many shirts patterns in my life as a pattern maker but honestly always struggled with getting a nice collar finish when sewing.
In the latest release from Wardrobe BY Me, The Aurora Tunic and Dress PDF sewing pattern, I tested several different collar sewing methods and found one that is so easy that I decided to share it with you. Here is the neckline as it looks on Aurora, but you can use this method for any pattern with a collar stand.
The same collar is used in the Perfect Tunic.
As you can see below, the collar has extra seam allowance at the front edge. This is handy, as you won't be fidgeting with having enough seam allowance to get an excellent front edge shape. The other piece is a template that you use to get the right front curve edge. You get both pattern pieces with the Aurora pattern, but you can also make your own by just adding extra seam allowance to the front side of the collar.
Press interfacing to the outside collar on the wrong side of the fabric. Add interfacing to both collar pieces if the material is thin and difficult to handle.
1: Sew the outside collar to the neckline RSF. Match Center back collar to center back neckline. The collar edge will extend beyond the front neckline. Clip into the neckline seam allowance to help the seam allowance lay flat.
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2: Prepare the inside collar by pressing the allowance towards the inside of the collar.
3: Pinn the inside and outside collar together RSF. Place the collar template against the front placket and trace the collar curve onto the fabric. Sew the collar seam. Cut away the extra seam allowance.
4: Turn and press the pieces. Clip into the seam allowance to create a smooth curve.
5: Pin the lower inside collar edge to the neckline. Place the pins from the outside. That way, you can sew the seam as a "stitch in the ditch" from the outside, and get a nice clean finished look.
And here is the finished collar. Check it out and see how easy it is!
