I have designed many shirts patterns in my life as a pattern maker but honestly always struggled with getting a nice collar finish when sewing.
In the latest release from Wardrobe BY Me, The Aurora Tunic and Dress PDF sewing pattern, I tested several different collar sewing methods, and found one that is so easy that I decided to share it with you. Here is the neckline as it looks on Aurora, but you can use this method for any pattern with a collar stand.
As you can see below, the collar is drafted with some extra seam allowance at the front edge. This is really handy, as you won't be fidgeting with having enough allowance to get a nice front edge shape. The other piece is a template, that you use to get the right front curve edge. Both pieces are included in the Aurora pattern, but you can also make your own by simply adding extra seam allowance to the front edge of the collar.
Interfacing is pressed to the outside collar on the wrong side of the fabric. If your fabric is very thin and difficult to handle, add interfacing to both collar pieces.
1: Sew the outside collar to the neckline RSF. Match Center back collar to center back neckline. The collar edge will extend beyond the front neckline. Clip into the neckline seam allowance to help the seam allowance lay flat.
2: Prepare the inside collar by pressing the allowance towards the inside of the collar.
3: Pinn the inside and outside collar together RSF. Place the collar template against the front placket and trace the collar curve onto the fabric. Sew the collar seam. Cut away the extra seam allowance.
4: Turn and press the pieces. Clip into the seam allowance to create a smooth curve.
5: Pin the lower inside collar edge to the neckline. Place the pins from the outside. That way, you can sew the seam as a "stitch in the ditch" from the outside, and get a nice clean finished look.
And here is the finished collar. Check it out and see how easy it is!